BBB advise on what to ask a roofer – after watching, check out top 10 question to ask when hiring a roofing contractor

Here is a list of 10 crucial questions for roofing contractors:

1 ) What is the company’s name and physical location?

This simple question is actually an important one to ask, especially if you are considering hiring a roofing company that sends its representatives door to door. It is always safer to deal with an established local business in your area that can provide you with an address that you can check out. Do not trust companies that solicit work out of trucks and pressure you with such notices as “the special price is only good if you sing the contract today”.

2 ) How long have you been licensed and what is your license number?

You need to hire a professional contractor who specifically has a roofing license, and ideally one who has been in business for at least 3-5 years. Ask for the company’s state license number and be sure to check out their license with the State Board of Roofing Contractors. Also, find out if this roofing company will be hiring sub-contractors, and if they will, you should get their license numbers as well.

3 ) What types of roofing systems do you specialize in?

Understanding this is very important to getting the right contractor for your roof. If you do not know this information already, do your research and find out exactly what type of roofing system you have. Especially if you have a flat roof or a metal roof, you want to hire a company that has training and experience with these very specialized roofing systems. If you end up giving the job to a “general” contractor, you may be putting yourself at risk of having to do the repairs or the installation over again due to their mistakes.

4 ) What can you tell me about the repair/installation process, materials and maintenance involved?

You want to understand exactly what the process of repair or installation will look like. Find out in detail what the particular benefits and problems with the proposed roofing material are: insulation, drainage, resistance to fire, wind, rain, hail, watertight capacity, thermal expansion capacity, ventilation. Ask what the maintenance will be like after repairs or installation are finished.

5 ) Who is liable in case there is damage to the roof or to one of the workers during the job?

To protect yourself, you need to work with a roofing company that will provide you with a Certificate for Insurance Liability and Certificate of Worker’s Compensation. Do not take the risk of working with a company that does not have these certificates, but tries to lure you in with a very attractive price. You will end up paying a lot more if something goes astray. Call the insurance carrier to verify that the company is in good standing.

6 ) Do you have at least 3 recent references (better to ask for 5) that I can contact?

By far references are your best indicator of the kind of company you are dealing with. Do not take their word if they give you a couple of names and phone numbers. Take the time to call these people, and speak to them in detail about their experience, and their overall satisfaction. Ask for references that are no more than one year old. If any of the references are in your area, it would be wise to go there and check out the kind of job these roofers have done. It is also a good idea to ask for one reference of a customer who had a complaint, so that you can call them and hear how the contractor handled the issue with that customer.

7 ) Will you provide me with a written contract that will specify all the terms, as well as the full price?

You absolutely should have a written, signed contract that you will keep for your records. Before signing a contract with a contractor be sure you understand and agree to all terms. If the contractor makes any verbal promises, write them into the contract.

8 ) What is your payment policy?

If you find a company that requires full payment before they start the job, you can waive them good bye. Typically, professional roofing companies will ask for 1/3 of the agreed upon price when the contract is signed (before they start the job), 1/3 in the middle of the job, and 1/3 once they are finished. Do not pay in full until there is a final inspection of your work to your satisfaction. Also, do not pay in full until you get the worker’s and materials lien releases.

9 ) Do you provide a warranty and honor manufacturer’s warranty?

It is best to work with a contractor that provides both a manufacturers warranty, as well as their own warranty in case there is a problem with the repair or installation. The exact terms of this warranty need to be written into the contract.

10 ) Who will remove the debris left over from the project?

A professional roofing company will take it upon themselves to remove debris from the job site, which will include old scraps, and roofing materials. They will rent a truck that will haul everything out. Make sure that the price of this removal is included in the final price, and specified in the written contract.

11 ) BONUS Question – Are you certified by the manufacturer of the roofing material you plan to install?

Usually, a fly-by-night roofing company will not bother to get certified by Roof Manufacturer. On the other hand – well established roofing companies will usually get licensed or certified by a manufacturer of their choice, which opens avenues for them to provide extended warranties covered by manufacturer, and also have their roofs inspected by manufacturer’s field inspectors, who then approve extended warranty. You should always choose to work with certified / approved roofers, to get best quality roof and service.

Once you have selected a roofing contractor and feel comfortable with them – confirm that they are not overcharging you – estimate cost to replace your roof on www.RoofingCalculator.org

How do I choose the best underlayment for my home?

In choosing underlayment, you goal is to get one that will provide you with the most protection against leaks at a price that you can afford. For example, a high quality synthetic underlayment (such as GAF Deck Armor) can extend the life of your roof by an average of 5 to 10 years, at an additional expense of only a few hundred dollars over felt underlayment. If you live in any of the states that get a lot of snow, ice, and rain, it is wise to invest more money and install an ice shield in combination with synthetic underlayment. Synthetic underlayment or an ice shield or a combination of both should always be used for metal roofing, clay tile, slate, and other premium (expensive) roofing materials to provide adequately long lasting secondary layer of roof protection.

Initially spending more money on premium underlayment material will actually help you save a lot of money down the road. You will not need to spend extra to fix your leaking roof, or buy a whole new roof if your will end up being in a condition beyond repair. If you live in a mild climate with minimal rainfall, your roof should be adequately protected with felt underlayment.

Roofing Underlayment video – overview of underlayment types and installation guidelines:

What exactly is Roofing Underlayment?

Roofing underlayment is a special barrier that is installed between the roof substrate and the surface roofing material (shingles, tile, membrane, etc). It provides added protection to the roof structure and the interior of the home against water leaks caused by rain and ice dams.

What is the proper way to install roofing underlayment?

Underlayment is installed in an overlapping sequence from the bottom of the roof going up. Roofing underlayment typically comes in rolls and can be self adhered or nailed down to the roof substrate. If you are installing ice and water underlayment, it needs to be installed first. Second, you install the first course of either synthetic or felt underlayment, overlapping the ice and water underlayment by at least 6 inches. If you are installing felt, consecutive courses should overlap by 50%. If you are installing synthetic underlayment, 6 inch overlap is sufficient. It is advisable to use plastic cap nails to fasten down the underlayment with 12 inches on center spacing at the top and bottom of each course. The vertical overlap should be at least 2 feet or 24 inches. Roofing underlayment should cover the entire roof deck. When transitioning into the valley, roofing underlayment should overlap the ice and water shield(previously installed along the valley) by 6-8 inches. All nails should be placed at least 12 inches away from the center of the valley.

What are the different types of roofing underlayment?

There are three types of underlayment that can be installed on a roof: felt underlayment, ice shield underlayment, and synthetic underlayment.

1. Felt is tar or asphalt saturated paper made with some fiberglass. It is the most widely used and the cheapest roofing underlayment. While felt offers a general level of protection against leaks, it may not be enough if you live in an area that gets heavy snow and/or rain fall. Felt underlayment is not as high quality material as synthetic underlayment, does not last as long, does not offer the same level of protection and is less tear proof. Felt or tar paper underlayment is typically installed with asphalt roof shingles. For premium roofing products, contractors and manufacturers usually recommend using synthetic underlayment (read below for more details).

2. Ice Shield (also known as ice and water shield, or I&W) is a thick asphalt or bitumen based reinforced membrane. This membrane has a sticky surface, that glues to the roof deck, and does not tear after installation. In Northern states and Canada, building codes require the usage of ice shields, because it protects the roofing structure from water penetration caused by wind-driven rain and ice dams. It is essential to use an ice shield in critical areas such as eaves, rakes, ridges, valleys, dormers and skylights. It is best to install the ice shield when air, roof deck and membrane temperatures are at or above 40°F (4.4°C). For best protection, an ice shield should be installed at the bottom 3 ft of the roof. The rest of the roof can be covered by regular underlayment (felt or synthetic)

The down side of an ice shield is that when it is installed over the entire roof deck, it also acts as a vapor barrier, which means that it traps water under the roof. Trapped water can cause the substrate to rot and will also lead to the formation of allergenic mold and mildew. As a result, it is generally recommended to avoid covering the entire roof with an ice shield.

3. Synthetic underlayment is an expensive substitute for felt and has a number of advantages. Synthetic underlayment lasts longer, is more tear proof, and usually does not deteriorate. This underlayment can be breathable or non-breathable. Non-breathable underlayment acts as a vapor barrier, trapping moisture under the roof. Consequently, it is best to avoid it and not have to deal with the problems of rotting roof substrate and mold that invariably occur when there is too much water trapped under the roof.

A roofing system consists of several parts that are constructed in a step by step process. Each component of a roofing system is described below from the roofing rafters that come first to the skylights and chimneys that sit on top of the complete roofing system.

Roof Construction Video

1. Rafters

A rafter is one member in a series of sloped beams that are designed to support the roof deck and its associated loads. Rafters are typically made of wood and exposed rafters can be a feature of traditional roof styles. In modern construction, there is a preference for trussed rafters, which are made of one or more triangular units constructed with straight members, whose ends are connected at joints. Trussed rafters are manufactured off-site, use less materials, are easier to construct and therefore cost less than traditional rafters.

2. Roof Deck / Substrate

A roof deck is a roofing material layer installed on top of the rafters and right under the insulating layers of underlayment. the primary function of a roof deck is to act as a unifying structural diaphragm by tying all the structural components of a roof together. In construction, a roof deck is also known as sheathing or substrate. All three terms refer to the same thing. A roof deck can be made from plywood, OSB/boards. A high quality roof deck must be rigid, should eliminate excessive positive or negative deflection under load, and needs to have a smooth surface free of any large cracks or gaps. It is critical for the roof deck to be evenly and securely anchored to the building structure. A roof deck must have proper water drainage system, without which a roof membrane’s performance will be compromised if it is exposed to prolonged periods of ponding water.

3. Underlayment

Roofing underlayment is a special barrier that is installed between the roof substrate and the surface roofing material such as roofing shingles, tile, etc. Underlayment is installed in an overlapping sequence from the bottom of the roof going up. Roofing underlayment provides added protection to the roof structure and the interior of the home against water leaks caused by rain and ice dams. There are three types of underlayment: felt, ice shield and synthetic underlayment. Felt underlayment is tar or asphalt saturated paper made with some fiberglass. Its the cheapest underlayment available, but it does not perform as well or last as long as other types of underlayment.

Ice shield underlayment is also known as Ice and Water Shield or I&W. It is a thick asphalt or bitumen based reinforced membrane that has a sticky surface, that adheres to the substrate. This membrane does not tear.In Northern states and Canada, building codes require the usage of I&W. This shield protects the roof from ice dams. For the best performance it should installed at the bottom 3 ft of the roof. The rest of the roof can be covered by regular underlayment (felt or synthetic).

Synthetic underlayment is an expensive substitute for felt. It lasts longer, is more tear proof, usually does not deteriorate, can be breathable or non-breathable. Non-breathable underlayment acts as a vapor barrier, meaning it traps moisture under the roof. This is bad because it makes the substrate rot and also causes the formation of allergenic mold and mildew.

4. Roofing Material

Roofing material is nailed over the underlayment to the substrate. There are a wide variety of roofing materials available to homeowners that range in durability, longevity, level of protection, aesthetic look and design, as well as price. Roofing materials include asphalt roofing shingles, metal roofing shingles, synthetic slate roofing shingles, cedar roofing shingles, clay and concrete tile, PVC membrane, copper roofing materials, etc.

Asphalt roofing shingles are a cheap roofing material that is widely used in residential roofing, while metal and tile roofs are premium roofing materials that are very costly, but offer superior lifetime protection and energy savings for your home.

5. Dormers

A dormer is a structural element of a building that protrudes from the plane of a sloping roof surface. Dormers can be used in original construction or be added on later. They create extra usable space in the roof of a home by adding headroom as well as allowing the addition of windows. If a dormer is not properly constructed it can lead to leaks and very expensive repairs.
There are different types of dormers: shed dormer, gabled, hipped, eyebrow, segmental. The most common dormer types are gabled and hipped. A Gable dormer has a gabled roof, with two sloping planes that meet at a central ridge. A Hipped dormer has a hipped roof with three sloping planes that meet at the top.

6. Valleys

A valley is formed when two portions of a roof meet at an inside angle. These valleys are common to many roofs. Many times, a valley is created where the roof on the main part of the house meets the garage roof, or when an addition is put on the original roof. A valley is a vulnerable area on the roof, as it can collect leaves, and other debris. In the winter, ice collects in the valley, and as the ice freezes and thaws, the shingles get worn down and often require repair or replacement.

7. Skylights, chimneys and other protrusions

Skylights, chimneys and other protrusions are the top elements of the roof structure. A skylight is a structure that allows light on the roof to travel to the interior of a home. Skylights are useful in spaces that do not receive a lot natural daylight. Skylights offer an environmentally friendly solution to brightening a home. Using natural light rather than electricity as a light source can save energy and can reduce electricity bills.

A chimney is a vertical structure for venting combustion gases or smoke from a boiler, stove, furnace or fireplace to the outside atmosphere through the roof.

8. Roof Construction Costs

On most roof installations, you will not be dealing with framing or substrate, as those are usually associated with new homes. On existing homes, you may encounter framing and roof deck repairs / replacement only if your roof suffered severe damages, due to prolonged roof leaks.

If you are faced with roof replacement, you can use our roof calculator to estimate roof replacement cost for most items listed above: new roof, underlayment, plywood replacement, chimney and skylight flashing, etc.

Within the class of asphalt roofing shingles materials there are different options you can choose from, ranging from the most basic 3-tab roofing shingles to upgraded, superior quality laminated shingles. Some of these roofing shingle options are more expensive than others, and you will have to decide whether their extra benefits are worth the extra cost.

Estimate the prices of new asphalt shingles roof with our Roofing Calculator.

Different types of asphalt roofing shingles

Classic 3 Tab Roofing Shingles

If you are on a budget and are looking for the most basic yet quality asphalt shingle material for your roof, the classic 3 tab roofing shingle is a great option. For decades, this has been and still continues to be the most commonly used roofing shingles on most residential homes in the US. The 3 tab shingle is about 1-ft. tall x 3-ft. wide, and it has the same thickness throughout. From the bottom end, narrow slots are cut about half-way up the shingle to create three tabs. Each one is about 5-in. tall x 12-in. wide. This construction results in a clean, flat look throughout your roof.

The 3 tab roofing shingle offers the following benefits and safety features for your roof. It typically carries a 25-40 year prorated warranty (for details read our section on asphalt shingles roof longevity and roof repair, below). It is wind resistant up to 60 miles per hour and carries a 5 year warranty, which should be just fine if your house is located in a region that is not prone to strong winds.

Laminated / Architectural Roofing Shingles

It is easy to get confused when shopping around for an upgraded version of an asphalt roofing shingle, since this shingle has a number of different names. Laminated shingles, architectural shingles and three-dimensional shingles all refer to one type of asphalt roofing shingle. The main difference and advantage of these shingles is that they have at least two layers of fiberglass matting that are individually coated in asphalt, and then laminated together. This construction creates extra thickness. Laminated shingles have a warranty that is correlated with their thickness; the thicker the shingle the longer the warranty. For example, triple laminate shingles carry a lifetime warranty. This feature enables laminated shingles to have better tear off resistance; some are rated to resist winds of 120 miles per hour. If you live in a hurricane prone region of the US, investing more money for the added security of your home is a smart financial decision. Another important safety feature of laminated shingles is strong fire resistance. This is especially true of laminated roofing shingles that have a heavy granulated top coat. A heavy layer of top coat granules provides the highest fire rating of Class A.

Premium Asphalt Roofing Shingles

If you would like your roof to have great curb appeal, laminated shingles are the right choice for creating a variety of custom looks that will suite many home styles and different aesthetic tastes. Unlike other asphalt roofing shingles, laminated roofing shingles create visual depth on a roof, which is why they are also called three-dimensional roofing shingles.

Depth is created by a special process of installing thick and thin shingles side-by-side. This is done by taking a flat shingle and trimming it to have tabs that are separated by large gaps. Next, an extra shingle layer is bonded below the tabs.

This added shingle is a large, solid rectangle whose surface is hidden by the overlying tabs, and is therefore visible in the spaces between the tabs. The result is a roof that looks like it is made with thin and thick shingles placed in a natural and random, yet orderly way.

Roof shingles designs and texture:

In addition to offering a great look, the majority of asphalt shingle products have a special design feature that helps prevent a common aesthetic problem: black streaks caused by algae. This problem is very common on roofing shingles in regions with high humidity and frequent rainfall. Laminated shingles are more algae-resistant because they are coated with copper or zinc granules, which leach over time, inhibiting algae growth. Consequently, laminated shingles continue to be a favorite roofing material among architects, roofing contractors and home owners.

Asphalt Shingles Roof longevity, roof repair, and environmental concerns:

How long asphalt shingles last:

Typical 3-tab or “30-year” architectural shingles will last 15-25 years, and ONLY when properly installed, and with adequate roof ventilation. If your attic is not ventilated, shingles will “cook” from excessive heat, dry up, become brittle, and the roof will begin to loose granules (which protect shingles from UV radiation) and leaks will start to occur, requiring occasional roof repair or a complete replacement.

See a special report video by CBC, on how long asphalt shingles REALLY last, and what your warranty covers (or not):

Alternatives to asphalt roofing shingles:

One of the best alternatives to asphalt roof, is a metal roof. Metal roofs typically outlast asphalt, by 3-4 times (35-50 years) and often last much longer. Metal roofs are cool – they reflect solar heat instead of storing it and heating your attic. Metal roofs are not prone to ice dams, which are the leading cause of roof leaks in the northern states and Canada.

Metal roofs come in a variety of styles and colors – you can get a traditional vertical panels (standing seam metal roof) look, metal shingles that resemble real slate, cedar shingles or tile, and many other profiles. Check out our metal roofing guide for more info.

Environmental Considerations of asphalt shingles

If you are giving purchasing asphalt shingles serious thought, you should also be aware that this is not the most environmentally friendly roofing material on the market. Since asphalt shingles are made with petroleum, their manufacture contributes to the negative environmental impacts of recovering ad processing petroleum. These include water pollution and emission of toxic gases that cause global warming.

Another issue is that at the end of their service life, asphalt shingles end up in our landfills, which are already overflowing. While asphalt shingles can be recycled, the logistics of roof shingles recycling and costs ar too high. Roofing contractors must go out of their way, to recycle old shingles, which includes separating them from other roof debris during roof tear-off, and coordinating with recycling company for storage and pickup of old shingles. Since most roofers do a roof / day, most contractors will not bother with recycling of old asphalt shingles. Additionally there are very few companies that engage in asphalt shingles recycling, and are not present in most states (in part due to tough regulations and costs).

Asphalt shingles are also NOT a “cool roof”. The attract solar heat ad store it all day long, transferring the heat into attic space, which drive up cooling costs. While some asphalt shingles come with “cool roof” coating, they ar only marginally cooler than regular asphalt shingles.

Why would my roof need an inspection?

Your roof is exposed to the forces of nature every day throughout the year. Things like fluctuations in temperature, sun, snow, wind, rain, hail, heat, and cold, all cause wear and tear to the roofing material and affect the roof’s ability to protect the home. For example, exposure to strong wind can uplift roofing shingles. Rain can penetrate the roof through weakened or eroded sealing materials used around the chimney, skylights, and plumbing vents. Extreme temperature fluctuations can cause cracks allowing water to seep in. Moreover, roofing materials can wear significantly faster in warmer climates, when exposed to constant sun and heat. Clearly, your roof will be even more susceptible to potential damages if you live in regions prone to severe weather conditions as hurricanes, tornadoes, snow and hail storms, droughts, etc. As a homeowner, you cannot determine how any of the above conditions affect your roof, and you cannot accurately assess the scope of damages that could have been done. A professional roof inspection takes care of these questions for you with a detailed examination of your roof, and specific suggestions for what needs to be fixed to keep the roof in solid shape.

What are the benefits of a roof inspection?

1. Prevention

The number one reason to have an inspection is for preventative measures. If your inspector spots leaks and other issues while they are sill in their early stage, you will have the opportunity to take care of them , do a timely roof repair, before they turn into major issues that can cause major damage to your house, and become difficult and costly to fix.

2. Financial Savings

A roofing inspection itself is a small price to pay for avoiding big problems down the line. It is obvious that fixing small problems is cheaper than fixing major ones. Letting your roof leak or rot without inspecting and fixing it will lead to expensive repairs and possibly roof replacement, all of which will cost you thousands of dollars. Moreover, fixing these small problems can help you weatherize your roof, which will ultimately result in monthly savings on heating and cooling costs.

3. Avoid health risks for your family.

Without an inspection, small leaks in your roof can go unnoticed for a very long time and will eventually lead to trapped moisture in areas of your ceiling. This moisture can breed bacteria and mold, which can cause respiratory and other health issues to you and your family. A roof inspection will quickly discover these leaks, so that they can get fixed right away.

4. Home Value.

If you ever consider selling your house, a regular inspection can make sure that your roof is in good shape and up to date on all of its repairs. An inspection can also alert you to what needs to be fixed before you put your house on the market. The bottom line is that a roof with problems can deter many potential buyers, and can also significantly decrease the resale value of your home.

5. Find and Prevent Ice Dams.

Ice dams can cause more damages and repairs than most obvious roof leaks. Besides the actual leaks that you see inside your home, the water also penetrates wall and insulation, causing slow rot, supports mold an mildew growth, and in the end can cost well over $10000 in repairs and mold removal. Learn more about ice dams preventions

How can I make sure that I get a quality roofing inspection?

For a professional roofing inspection, make sure to contact a reputable, experienced roofing company near you. A proper inspection of your roof needs to be very thorough. The roofing inspector should take time to carefully check such things as roof shingles, flashing around chimneys and vents, sealants and caulking, and anything else that your particular roof may require. A trustworthy inspector should provide you with a detailed itemized list of issues, suggestions on how to fix them, and a price for this work to be completed.

What is the best season to have a roofing inspection?

Typically roofing inspections are scheduled either in the spring or in the fall. IF you live in an area that gets a lot of snow, hail, and wind in the winter, then it is best to have the roofing inspection in the spring, so that the potential damages can be spotted and taken care of as soon as possible. Conversely, if you live in a region that gets blasted with heat and sun during the summer, but has mild winters, it is best to inspect your roof in the fall.

This significant price drop was caused by a major fall of oil prices, after president Obama issued an executive order on Friday, telling big oil companies to drop gas prices by at least a dollar per gallon (effective $25-30 reduction in cost of barrel of oil), until the presidential election, to ensure Obama’s reelection for a second term as US President.

Although big oil companies were not happy with this move by president’s administration, the unofficial threat by Obama’s people of increasing taxes on oil companies, and opening offshore drilling options for smaller oil producers in the US, convinced them to go along with proposed Obama’s plan to “reduce gas prices of ordinary Americans”… until the election anyway.

Oil price drop causes drop in roofing shingles prices, as oil by-product - asphalt is the main and most expensive ingredient in the roof shingles manufacturing.

Connection between oil prices and cost of roofing shingles

As you may know, oil prices have major impact of cost of roofing shingles, since roof shingles are made with asphalt – a crude oil byproduct, which is also used in road construction, and manufacturing of certain flat roofing materials such as modified bitumen roofing. In general, when oil prices increase, cost of roof shingles, as well as other asphalt-based roofing materials goes up. However if oil prices drop, roofing materials usually do not decrease in price. See our previous report on major increase in roofing shingles prices.

We will keep you updated on current drop in oil and roofing prices.

H A P P Y – A P R I L – F O O L S – D A Y ! ! !

Sincerely – Roofing Calculator

Most people that have a roof replaced are usually relieved to have the job completed so the first thing they do is breath a sigh of relief in knowing that they’ve just put a big investment behind them and that their Roof will be in good shape for a number of years to come. While this may be true they usually fail at the important task of Roof maintenance, which just like your vehicle needs a tune up from normal wear an tear.

Don’t let your roof turn into this:

If you think about it, a roof takes a real beating from the elements and still looks nice for many years, matches your home’s color scheme and protects everything you hold valuable inside your home. The same way you rely on your car to perform and take you from point A to point B day in and day out, you rely on your Roof to take you from Summer to Winter, year after year. Don’t neglect your roof – give it a good tune up every two to three years and at least have it inspected yearly to make sure everything is still fine up there.

So where do you start with Roof Maintenance?

Here is a checklist of 11 things to do, to extend the life of your roof:

1.) Check Pipe Boots – re-seal around pipe or change boot flashing if it’s cracked or dry rotted.

2.) Flashing – re-caulk all step and counter flashings, check for bends, splits etc. Change damaged step-flashing where necessary.

3.) Check all hot stacks, storm collars make sure nothing is loose.

4.) Repair any nail pops.

5.) Repair any loose or missing roof shingles.

6.) Get in the Attic to make sure the Soffits do not have insulation blocking free air flow. Check all sheathing to make sure there is no dry rot.

7.) Check the Ridge Vent on the Roof peak to make sure everything is nailed tight and all Hip & Ridge capping is in good shape.

8.) Check any Roof Skylights for Cracks, Leaks or Fogged glass/plastic.

9.) Check all guttering and downspouts (gutter drains) to make sure nothing is clogged and that the gutters are nailed tight so all rain water flows properly.

10.) Make sure any Tree branches are not resting on the Roof, If any excessive Tree limbs are hanging over the home suggest a Tree Removal company come out to trim back the branches.

11.) Improve the insulation and ventilation of your attic space, to reduce heat loss and prevent ice dams – one of the most common causes of roof leaks in the winter.

Watch a quick roof repair video on how to replace a missing / broken roofing shingle yourself:

Check out our homeowner’s DIY roof repair guide learn more about fixing the roof yourself.

These are the basics for a typical Asphalt Shingled Roofing system. Obviously if there have been leaks or water stains on the ceilings you need to pinpoint the cause and fix it promptly and if the Roof seems like it has too many things wrong or the granules are simply coming off the shingles suggest Roof Replacement.

About author:

This roof maintenance guide is a guest roofing article submitted by Doug from Room2Roof – a Charlotte Roofing Company.

• See first part of this guide, in which we cover roof preparation, installing roof underlayment and eave / gable trim – Standing Seam Installation.
• See also second part of this guide, which walks you through installation of field panels to the roof, using special clips and fasteners, transitioning the panels into the valley, and terminating panels on the gable ends of the roof – Standing Seam Roof Installation – Part 2 – installing roof panels.

Installing hip and ridge caps:

Before we proceed, please watch the video below, which walks you through this process step-by-step, demonstrating the metal roof installation techniques used in this guide.

As we stressed before, the roof is not totally weather tight until all trims are complete. We will do this by either using a ridge as our guide, or measuring down from the ridge to give us a proper upper location for placement of the metal Z closures. We will then apply caulk tape to the back side of the Zs, again a secondary leak preavention. Also, a series of screws will then be installed to hold the Zs place. These also fasten the panels to keep them from sliding down the roof. The number of screws will vary on the width of the panels. The screws are very important in maintaining a secure fastening of the panels, and eaven more so if a snow retention system is attached on the installation.

A minimum of two screws are used in an eleaven inch panel and up to four screws are used in a 19 inch panel. The type of Zs being used in this ridge installation are for a none-venting application. But, an aluminum perforated Z could be supplied for a vented ridge. After the metal Zs are completed, a bead of quality sealant is installed along the sides of the Zs and also over the top of the seam of the panel. This is to aid the sealant of the ridge, and also to keep the neoprene closures in the proper location. In this case, it is also secondary weather proofing.

Finishing Roof Panels Installation – Final Touches

Installing Z-bar flashing, Neoprene Inserts, Ridge Cap and Hip Caps

The ridge cap is ready to be installed by stacking it over the metal Zs. The protective masking on the trim is removed prior to the installation. Where additional lengths of ridge are needed, an internal splice is used. Metal used for this splice is the same color as the cap. It is 6 inches to 8 inches long. Before it is installed,a double bead of corck is applied to the metal to preavent any wind-blown rain from penetrating beyond the splice and on to the ridge. This splice is now installed onto the end of the ridge. The next piece of ridge is ready to be installed. You must maintain approximately 3/16 of an inch between the ridge caps to allow for expansion.

In fastening the ridge, a pop rivet or stitch screw will be installed on the folded over portion of the ridge to hold it in place, while eliminating the potential of any leaking into the ridge. Also, if fastening is required into the ridge, it is important to install the fasteners on the exterior portion of the metal Z closures, as an insurance that if the fastener does leak, it will only leak onto the roof panels and not into or behind the trims.

The installation will now continue on to the next portion of the roof. By starting out with the same length piece as we finished with, we are able to match very closely the location of the standing seam, therefore allowing some symmetry of the installation. As you will notice, the installation continues in the same fashion, and the trims are completed as we go. Now that we are working on the other side of the hip, we will again start with the piece the same width as the one we finished with on the other side. Care should be taken to make sure that these pieces are started square.

Screws are installed at the tops of the panels at the hip location, just like they were at the ridge areas, to keep panels from sliding down the roof, bus still allowing them to expand toward the bottom of the roof. After panel installation has progressed beyond the hip, we will prepare to install the hip cap. We will set out cap in place to help us determine the proper location of the metal Z closures. Then, a chalk line will be used to give us an accurate point from which to work. The metal Zs will then be installed in the same fashion as at the ridge using butyl caulk tape, neoprene closure strips, and a clear sealant.

Additional screws are being used because of the length of the Zs. The Z’s were also installed along the eave area to close the underneath area of the hip cap. When eaverything is in place, the hip cap is snapped into place to complete the hip area.

We will now continue on with the balance of the panels toward our ending gable. The ending of a panel follows exactly the same procedure that we used to start our panels. At this location, the Z is fastened to the panel using pop rivets that are installed through the Z, corck tape and the panel. Make sure that the flush side of the ribbets is toward the substrate. Also, clips are used to hold down the panel and still allow for expansion. The gable trim is again folded over to close off the bottom of the edge, before it is snapped into place. When the gable is complete, the ridge cap is installed to complete our installation.

This concludes our standing seam metal roof installation guide. We recommend that only seasoned roofers install metal roofs, unless you are working on a fairly simple, gable roof type, with a walkable roof slope. And don’t forget to always use safety precautions and equipment.

Metal Roofing Information:

Metal Roofing Calculator – estimates the length of standing seam roof panels (even ads 3 inches to length of each panels for eave hook strips and ridge line offset), z-bar flashing, eave and gable trim, ridge and hip caps, for Gable and Hip roofs.

Metal Roofing Materials – Lear About Metal Roofing pros and cons, environmental benefits of metal roofs, compare metal roofing materials and learn how to install different metal roof products.

Metal Roofing Shingles – another great architectural metal roofing choice for homeowners. Metal shingles provide same lever of roof protection as standing seam, but have a drastically different look. Steel shingles by Tamko imitate Natural Slate, Flat Concrete Tile or Cedar Shingles. Interlocking design makes metal shingles roof very rigid, and offers a hurricane strength wind resistance.

What are roof windows and skylights?

A roof windows / skylights are pretty much one in the same, and each term is regularly used to describe the other. A common difference is that skylights open whereas a roof window will not, although that does not stop each being referred to as the same thing. A roof window is, as the name suggests, a window that is fitted into the roof of a property, they come in various different shapes and sizes with various frames and glass designs available to choose from. When fitted into the roof of a loft conversion, a skylight will open offering ventilation for a room. This can be done manually or buy using a motorised operator. The latter offers convenience, especially when the window is hard to reach, although the ease of use will be reflected in the price tag – installing and flashing a skylight on the roof will increase the overall roofing cost – use our roofing calculator to estimate additional cost of adding skylights to your roof.

A window frame will generally be a solid wood finish that is pre-treated so as not to be affected by the elements, frames also come in aluminium which lightweight and solid. In terms of the glass, choice is also plentiful, clear, tinted and frosted can all provide with the required amount of privacy. It is wise when choosing roof windows to choose a double or triple glass unit, double is as standard with the vast majority of modern windows and will provide excellent benefits in terms of lowering heating bills and lower carbon emissions. As a large amount of heat that is lost from the home is lost through the roof and windows, having a highly rated energy efficient window will prove extremely beneficial.

Roof window advantages

There are numerous advantages to be gained by having a skylight or roof window installed in your home. The biggest of these is the fact it allows you to maximise the space in the home. Not only is this beneficial in providing much needed extra space but can also add significant value to a home.

There are no restrictions on the type of house that can install roof windows. Many new home builders are keen to make the most of available space and will install a skylight to do this, however older homes are also able to successfully install such a window.

Skylights are completely secure with modern key locking system and a top mounted handle to ensure children cannot open the window. Roof windows are no different to regular windows in that it is possible to buy shutters and blinds to fit, giving you added privacy when needed.

This guest roofing article was submitted by Sun Square – UK roof windows supplier.

See first part of this guide, in which we cover roof preparation, installing roof underlayment and eave / gable trim – Standing Seam Installation.

Installing first panel, field panels, and valley:

Before we proceed, please watch the video below, which walks you through this process step-by-step, demonstrating the metal roof installation techniques used in this guide.

Preparing Roof Panels:

Panels are supplied with vinyl masking over the standing seam to protect the pin surface during shipping. This masking must be removed prior to installation. Once this masking is exposed to sunlight, it would become very difficult to remove. The panel will now be made ready for installation. The first thing we will do is measure one inch from the bottom edge of the panel. After this is done, we will take our shears, and make a cut on both sides of the panel. We will then cut off the lower side of the seam.

Next, we will cut the outer edge of the high seam and then fold over the inner edge toward the outside. This will close off the end of the seam. This can also be done using an end plug in a matching color which can be provided. We will then take our folding tool and fold the flat section of the pan down. By doing this, we have created an additional point of fastening where it is needed the most, because wind force is the greatest along the edge of the roof. This also eliminates the opportunity for fish mouth to occur. Fish mouth is a condition when the pan would crown slightly between the two up-turned sides of the pan. This fold also leaves a very neat appearance. The flat clips will now be installed 3/8 of an inch from the starter cleat, assuming the roof is square. They should be placed one foot on center, first clip being fastened approximately 4 to 6 inches from the bottom of the eave trim. The remainder of the clips throughout the roof should be installed on two foot centers.

Installing First Panel:

Before we install the first panel, we will fasten a z-closure to the face of the panel, making sure to put a caulking tape sealer between the Z and the face of the panel. This tape where quality sealants are recommended when mounting metal to metal products. The Z will then be fastened to the panel using pop rivets or short screws 8 inches on center. It is imperative that the fasteners be installed directly through the tape to maintain full compression of the tape. The fasteners are installed from the back of the panels because of the flatter profile of that side of the fastener. The first is installed by placing the standing seam part of the panel directly over the clips and applying constant pressure directly until the seam snapping sound is hear. This ensures that the proper locking has occurred. After the locking procedure is complete the panel is then slid up into place where it then will lock into the eave trim. A screw is then placed approximately 1 inch down from the ridge to keep the panel from sliding down temporarily.

Next, the side clip will be installed, following the same procedure as earlier. With the first one being installed at the top edge of the eave trim. For the first three panels, the clip should be one foot on center. After that, they could be installed two feet on center. This clip pattern could vary depending on wind load requirements and local building codes. It is always advisable to install finished trims as soon as possible since the roof is not water proof until they are installed. Before we install the gable trim, we will fold over the end of the trim to close it up. It will be hooked on to the gable starter cleat and snapped over the Z that has been installed onto the first panel. We will then slide it up into place as needed. A pop rivet will then be installed at the top end of the trim to keep it from sliding down. If additional trims are needed to complete the gable, they would overlap the lower trim by 3 inches, and again be riveted at the top in the same fashion as the first one. The rivet is installed in the outer portion of the Z, so if the rivet were to leak, it would leak on to the panel and not behind the Z.

Installing Field Panels:

The roof is now ready for the installation of additional panels using the same positive pressure on the seam, allowing it to stop into place, and then sliding it up over the eave trim, and fastening the pin at the top in the same manner as the preceding panel.

Transition into a Valley:

Before we continue with our panel installation, we will install our valley flashing. The valley has been cut to match the angle of the eave trim. Also, the high V of the valley has been cut to close the end of the valley. The valley is then installed using screws in the upper corners of the valley. After the valley is installed, place a mark a minimum of 4 inches from the center of the valley toward the outer edge on both sides of the valley, and at the top and bottom of the valley. This four inch dimension can be increased up to six, depending on the length of the valley and also the edge of the roof to be able to accommodate the additional flow of water. At these marks, a chalk line will be snapped and a hook-strip will be installed, which will allow for the panels in the valley to be folded over to provide for an anchoring device for the panels.

After the hook-strip location is established, the sealant is then applied to the back side end of the hook-strip. In this case, we are again using the butyl caulk tape, which is easy to use. It also acts like an additional pair of hands, and aids in holding a cleat in place. The cleat is then fastened using pancake head, zinc coated wood screws, that are installed directly through the hook-strip, through the corck tape, through the valley and into the substrate. The location of the corck tape in regards to the cleat ensures a water tight installation, and screws will be installed approximately 12 inches on center. Now that the cleat is installed on both sides of the valley, we are ready to install the next panel. We will find out what the angle is and what length the panel needs to be, to allow an additional one inch, to allow for the fold over of the panel. When the fold over is complete, the panel will be installed in the same manner as the preceding panels. Bottom clip is installed just above the valley. It is advisable that this clip not be pulled down to the substrate, for it could cause a condition know as oil canning. This clip should only be tightened to a point where it hold up the turned up hem of the valley. This type of installation allows for good hold down, while still allowing for expansion and contraction.

Installing Additional Panels in the Valley:

The next panel is installed in the same manner. The use of a speed square aids in the ability to find the proper angle, but without spending too much time doing it. You can now take the angle and transfer it on to the panel. Be sure you allow one inch additional length for the panel fold over, which allows it to be locked in to the hook-strip. After one side of the roof is complete, we will begin finishing our trims.

End of Part 2

This concludes Part Two of our standing seam metal roof installation guide. Third part of this standing seam metal roof installation guide will cover installing roof trim / finishing installation with ridge and hip caps, and will be posted on our blog in the next few days.

Additional metal roofing resources:

Metal roofing prices guide explains the cost structure of different types of metal roofing – standing seam, metal shingles, copper and tin roofs – and demonstrates why metal roofs cost more than traditional asphalt roofing shingles.

Metal Roofing Materials guide at Cool Flat Roof – a Massachusetts roofing contractor that specializes in Flat and Metal Roof installation, and services MA, CT and RI.

Metal Shingles Roof Installation – see how another great metal roofing option for residential homes (interlocking metal shingles) is installed, using custom-made flashing components to prevent wind-blown water leaks.

Metal Shingles offer multitude of styles, such as Slate, Cedar or Flat Tile impressions, and provides all the benefits of metal roofing, such as ice dams protection, cool roofing colors, and lifetime roof performance.